Stage 1 - removed inlet manifold, injection system, power steering pump, distributor cap., plugs & leads.
Stage 2 - removed downpipe from turbo, wastegate & rest of exhaust, removed front apron,
oil cooler & alternator for better access, removed turbo from manifold,
drained oil & coolant, removed oil filters.
Stage 3 - removed exhaust manifold as I needed to get it welded, fitted crankshaft locking
tool, loosened cam pulley bolt using old cam belt (still fitted) to hold cam still,
loosened cam belt by rotating water pump & removed from cam pulley,
removed cam pulley & woodruff key, removed cam belt rear cover from head,
bent the top forward and tie wrapped to slam panel, removed cam cover & head,
loosened crank shaft pulley bolt (damn that's tight!) & removed crankshaft pulley
You can see where the head gasket blew between 3 & 4 and the witness marks left on
the head & block.
Cleaned up block mating surface. Removed 2 temperature switches from head - one on RHS
& one on the back. Removed blanking plug next to temp switch on back of head, removed
distributor - these will be needed in the new head.
Stage 4 - set up valve clearances on new head. Fitted exhaust manifold to head.
Cut heads off 2 old head bolts and screwed a few turns into block to align new
head and gasket. Placed new gasket and head onto block and tightened new head
bolts in sequence.
Fitted new cam belt and top & bottom pulleys, tensioned cam belt using water pump
adjustment.
Fitted cambelt covers and rested cam cover in position to protect cam.
I found a suitable torque wrench for hire from my local Beaver tool hire in Portsmouth.
450Nm is not actually hard to achieve with 4 foot of wrench! Filled up oil & water
(removed cam cover a tipped all the oil up and down the cam to ensure plenty of lubrication on start up)
Bolted all the ancillary parts back on, turned the key and she started :-) Set up idle speed & mixture, bolted the front bumper back on and made it to the club meeting - only 1/2 hour late!
Tips to remember:-
You MUST get 450Nm at the crank pulley bolt -I used thread lock too.
When you take the head off, dry any oil or water out of the head bolt holes completely -
otherwise you'll compress the fluid when you tighten the bolts and will not achieve the
proper torque or you could crack the block! Replace the RHS engine mount and heatsheild (unless new) when you're in there.
If you plan on just changing the exhaust manifold with the head in place, be prepared that
the nuts may be VERY hard to remove and you may break a stud in the head and end up removing
the head too :-(
Keep checking those timing marks - after you've done the final check rotate the engine gently by
hand, turning CLOCKWISE on the crank pulley - before you put the plugs in - just to make sure nothing
really nasty is going to happen when you turn the key.
Don't forget to buy new washers for the fuel lines you have undone - you don't want a small leak in a
fuel line - it's high pressure and can generate a VERY dangerous mist of fuel under the bonnet.
I've still got to change the engine mount as it was back order - I'll probably do it after I move house
and I'll document it with pictures as I'm fitting a new heat sheild too.
Parts Used:-
